Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Memoir - Leaves 2-6 Ireland, Launceston, Cape Town, Whyalla, Cambodia


At the moment the memoir consists of a series of leaves or postcards that slip between time periods without following a chronology or trying to tell a structured story.
 
 Appreciate feedback, reactions and suggestions.
  
Cover art: with kind permission of Rachel-Ireland-Meyers (see http://www.redbubble.com/people/grace4)
 Blue Echo

 The Memoir - a work in progress

Background see Working on a Memoir
Leaves 2-6 Ireland, Launceston, Cape Town, Whyalla, Cambodia
Leaves 7-9 Hooning, Teaching & Presenting
Leaves 10-11 Bookseller, Vexatious FOI applicants and shaky start to an academic career
Leaves 12-14 Car crash, Launceston early 1960s, A Road Not Taken



Leaf 2 “Returning to Erin” Ireland April 1999

I stood at the podium in St Patrick’s Hall deep inside Dublin Castle. Towering gilt covered columns and large mirrors lined the walls. Thin, long banners floated down the walls in between the mirrors and columns.  Many of the banners bore cattle motifs belonging to the Anglo-Irish nobility who gathered here century after century at the beck and call of their English monarchs. Above me, three massive painted panels by Vincenzo Valdre covered high and sweeping ceilings. The first depicted the coronation of King George III, the second, Saint Patrick introducing Christianity to Ireland, and the final painting was of King Henry II receiving the submission of the Irish Chieftains. This hall had, for centuries, sent a sharp message to the Irish, from nobility to peasant, about power and dominion.
 

The Irish Government/University of Cork sponsored FOI Conference was a rare opportunity for a junior lecturer to speak at such a venue in another country. I faced a sea of Irish faces, many bearing a striking resemblance to those I saw every day in Tasmania, including my cousins on the Cody and Gleeson sides of the family. I was extremely nervous despite repeated rehearsals in the morning shower, I had not yet found the right opening. Finding the start of a talk or lecture is always the difficult moment for me. 

If I can get an interesting opening or one that I can use as a hook, the rest of the talk flows naturally. Yet until I see the venue, and get a feel for the audience and the atmosphere, it is hard to crystallise the opening. Looking out on the assembled Irish public servants, journalists and academics, finally inspiration came to me as I waited on stage to be introduced.  I found the ‘hook’:  a link between my theme of government transparency, the history made within the confines of Dublin Castle  and  my mother’s ancestors being transported from Ireland in the 1840s. My talk had found its beginning:
“I find it strange to be standing here today- at the heart of colonial British administration from the place where my ancestors, male and female in chains, were transported as criminals to the other end of the world – talking about access to government information. I’m the first of their descendants to return to this country and after three months of living with ‘soft days’ I know why my ancestors never returned home.” 

Over the next 12 months I revisited parts of my Irish ancestors’ long, slow route to Australia. I gave invited talks in Cape Town, where their leaky old transport ships would have rested at anchor, and later at the Rocks in Sydney where they were likely to have berthed before being consigned like trade goods or human cattle to Van Diemen’s Land. In all three places my talks were given in the converted buildings of the British colonial regime – in Dublin Castle, a converted prison in Cape Town and the old government buildings in Sydney.

The invitation to Dublin was achieved through networking, a skill few academics or public servants seem to master despite the fortune spent on business cards and the piles of cards collected and distributed at conferences.  An email from people given one of my cards is rare. On the other hand within a week of returning from a trip, I’ve emailed everyone whose details I collected. If no reply is forthcoming, they are allowed to drift out of my networks. If someone replies, they go into one of my contact lists (administrative law teachers, FOI contacts, personal, by location or some other category). Only 5% of those I contact ever keep in touch. Yet in 20 years, this 5% has turned into a significant network. Networks are like gardens requiring regular attention where seeds germinate, bloom and often fade away over time.

 In early December 1998, I received an email from Maeve McDonagh, a striking red-haired academic from University College Cork. Maeve was an Irish expert on FOI who had worked in Australia. We met via the FoI Review, a publication I edited for a decade, and Maeve had visited Tasmania a few years previously for a seminar and stayed with my family. She had arrived in late November (late Spring) only to encounter snow falling on the mountain where we live. Maeve is one of those vibrant Galway women with a lilting voice and flashing eyes which give enough warning signs to know you would want to avoid her ire.  Maeve’s email  asked if I could help Cork Law School with a problem. Each year in January they invited a US academic to Ireland who would teach a legal writing class in return for an airfare and a small stipend. All that was required was a few hours of lectures, some one-on-one feedback with a hundred or more Irish, Spanish and German students over a four month period and marking two sets of essays. An American legal writing teacher (a position yet to gain a significant foothold in Australia) had cancelled at the very last moment and they needed someone within three weeks.

Frantic consultations with family, the Dean of the Law School and the deployment of my annual and long service leave found me committed to living for four months in Ireland whilst my family remained in Tasmania.  My return to ‘home soil’ after a 40 hour journey was almost thwarted as the Garda (Police) insisted on a work permit and seemed unmoved by my explanations that the people at Cork Law School had said it would be okay to complete the details (which only they had) on the form after arriving, an arrangement not cleared with the authorities.  It was Cork, late Saturday night and I was an Australian, so I was allowed in with a passport stamp saying  “report to the nearest Garda Station in 10 days,” a deadline my Irish colleagues kept insisting could blissfully be ignored. Meanwhile, on the same night in Dublin, a Japanese student with a fully completed permit, but in their luggage, was refused entry and held in custody for four days. Maybe a few ancestral spirits had removed the ‘barriers’ for my return ‘home’.

Leaf 3 “Words and Pictures” Elphin Road Launceston 1965 or early 1966

Two memories battle for a precise location in my early history. One is where I’m aged about six, checking letterboxes because I have conflated the sending out of pamphlets about the introduction of decimal currency with the idea that actual money was being delivered.  I have a strong impression that the struggle to find money was a constant part of my mother’s waking hours. My venture into postal theft reaped poor dividends as the Government simply sent out cards showing the likeness of the coins and banknotes to come. The second memory is heading to the newsagent to buy a copy of Smash, a British comic, with a penny or ha’penny with a coin that may have been given to me by an old man who lived in the same group of flats as our family.  Maybe this was the old man who taught me draughts and a few basic card games.  

The struggle to read the borrowed Dick and Jane books from East Launceston Primary School still lingers with me today, especially the frantic efforts I made to avoid the terror of trying to read aloud in class before my stuttering and mangled pronunciation ended in tears.  Yet those struggles and terror quickly disappeared with my private and mental devouring of the pictures, actions and words of Smash comics. Comics remain a treasured part of my reading material, and like Clive James in Unreliable Memoirs, some of them rank equally to Arundhati Roy, Kerouac or Shakespeare. As I type this, the latest 5 issues of The Phantom are sitting on the table waiting to be read with sweet pleasure and anticipation. Comics taught me I could master words and language, even if I had little talent or capacity to show that mastery with my voice.

When I first started writing these vignettes I would visualise a scene or recall a photograph and then develop the story around the image.  Image - my mother and I in our best outfits on the steps of a public building and the camera catching her beauty. Another image – a late Friday night almost two decades later and I am in the backseat of a speeding car, packed with local youth, as beer cans are being hurled at a pursuing police car.
For several years I have urged law book publishers to add colour and images to their text books or to produce a “Rough Guide” series to the law where cases and principles are supplemented by the back story, pictures and other information in drop boxes and other devices. Many of my academic colleagues would almost sneer at the ‘dumbing down’ of the delivery of ‘the law’ in this way.  For me, it is making the law accessible and interesting. A few years ago Lynden Griggs, my colleague at UTAS, and I wrote an article advocating teaching property law using just six cases. The idea was that we would trace the story, including the legal and the social aspects, from the beginning to the aftermath of the case. The idea was that this ‘six pack” of cases could put law cases and principles not only in their context, but also make them come alive with their characters, dramas and intriguing stories of hope, despair and chaos. This method would provide a way to immerse students in the detail of the law as well as into the drama and struggle behind the dry cases set out in the textbooks and case law. 

Leaf 4 “Freedom Fighter” Cape Town July 1999

The words “Freedom Fighter…”  were splashed across a large picture of me in the Argus newspaper in Cape Town, South Africa: an honour in the land of Nelson Mandela and the inspiring jurist Albie Sachs.  I was halfway through a rapid 3 day trip (including return travel that started with a lecture in Introduction to Law in Hobart on a Wednesday morning - a hurried filming in my office of a Lateline segment on FOI (that never went to air), a taxi to Hobart International Airport, a series of flights, – Melbourne - Kuala Lumpur –Mauritius – Johannesburg  - Cape Town, 48 hours at a conference then a return set of flights – Cape Town - Johannesburg – Sydney – Hobart, followed by another Introduction to Law lecture on the Monday morning, just to give a presentation to a conference about FOI in South Africa.  When I asked an organisier for the South African Human Rights Commission why I was there, he simply said, “after what you have to say about the experience elsewhere and what best practice is in relation to cabinet information then our proposals will look moderate.” Deep in the text of the Argus article is possibly the only use by an academic in a media interview using the term “ratshit”.

Three very different encounters have stayed in my mind from that trip. The first was being confronted by the slums on the way from the airport in Cape Town. It was my first near but still fleeting and remote encounter with mass poverty. It was intriguing to see the range of housing even within the slums. In one location, a large two storey concrete building lorded it over the rest of the buildings. Stretching out in almost prefect concentric, regulated zones were different types of housing: nearest to the two storey building were those constructed of better tin; as the zones went out the tin quality dropped quickly; and finally, tin was soon replaced by cardboard. On the edges of stagnant water pools (large puddles) were the most improvised dwellings. It seemed that poverty clearly had its own levels.  The second encounter occurred at a reception during a conversation with a white male who was a former member of the South African Defence Forces.  He was telling a story from the apartheid years about Armoured Personnel Carriers and the ANC. Another person, a black female left the group at the same time as I did.  She made a phone call where she related the man’s story and seemed to be urging some kind of action or response from the person on the other end of the line. Whilst the gathering was multi-racial, it was clear the scars, wounds and enmities from an earlier period were not buried, instead, they still lingered just under the surface of collective memory.

The final encounter was a lesson in the difference between necessary accommodation at work and separate lives after hours. A very mixed group from the conference, in terms of race, gender and countries went to an elegant wharf side restaurant. As we walked in, the conversation slowed to a stop. The absence of non-white faces among the diners was a stark contrast to our multi-ethnic group. During the course of our meal several ‘coloured’ passers-by stopped and looked into the restaurant. A couple appeared to make a spur of the moment decision and came in for a meal. One of my companions remarked the next day that there were very distinct worlds for most South Africans, nearly uncrossable divisions between their multi-racial working lives and their very race-centered non-work existence.

Leaf 5 “An inferno on the edge of town” Whyalla, South Australia  December 1977 – February 1978

A magnificent sight, driving on the edge of the South Australian desert with Dad at the wheel. Great forks of lightening rippled towards the earth from all locations around a perfectly flat horizon.  I felt like I was at the epicentre. Every few seconds another series of dazzling bright streaks, a fresh lightening bolt would appear, often before the previous one had faded. The blue sky disappearing into night wore a blanket of dark cloud and the flashes highlighted the redness of the soil. I was on my summer holidays before starting my second year of University. We were driving towards a complex of steel and iron rising out of the landscape: BHP’s Whyalla Steel Mill

Dad had moved to work at Whyalla after being retrenched in the massive lay offs of over 700 workers, almost half the workforce, at Mt Lyell, Tasmania in 1976. The retrenchments ripped apart Queenstown, a small isolated town of about 8,000 people. Many families were forced to do the unthinkable and leave town, an unimaginable moment for many in that town, including for my family. Untill that moment, an attitude had prevailed that the history of Queenstown, despite all the experiences of mining towns everywhere else, would be eternal. I had completed a social sciences assignment in matriculation college in 1975 which attempted to explain this attitude based on the evidence of surviving the economic crunch of the 1890s, the Mt Lyell Disaster of 1912, two World Wars, the Depression and hard times in the early 1960s. There was a feeling and an optimism that the town would be there for centuries.

At the same time as the retrenchments, two retiring Directors of Consolidated Goldfields, the then owners of Mt Lyell, received golden parachutes of several hundred thousand dollars each. The events of the Whitlam Dismissal, the invasion of East Timor, the Mt Lyell retrenchments and the golden parachute for the directors added sharp dimensions to my thinking and attitudes. The lonesome outsider started to form a critical and sharp political view of the world.  The accidental discovery of Bob Dylan (I was attracted by the cover and the poetic liner notes) via his Desire album and Bruce Springsteen’s tributes to the working/struggling classes of small towns finished the forging of a radical edge to my politics and social views.
After a long period of trying to find work with hundreds of others on the West Coast, even trying for jobs on Groote Eylandt, the largest island in the Gulf of Carpentaria, Dad eventually scored a job at Whyalla in South Australia and the family pulled up its roots and went with him. For a family that considered a once a year trip to Burnie (100 miles) as a major and largely joyless adventure, this appeared like a journey of no return. I stayed behind in Tasmania to continue my first year at the University.

Whilst my TESS (Tertiary Education Student Support) allowance was minimal (calculated on Dad’s previous wage at Mt Lyell and not on his unemployment benefit or much lower new wage), it did entitle me to 3 return trips to my home (the definition of home  now incorporated my family’s new home in South Australia) each year. No more money could be found for me to live on but I could spend more than double my monthly TESS cheque on each trip home three times a year if I wanted.

Bored and keen for money, during my first summer in Whyalla, I rocked up to the employment office at the steel mill. I lied about my educational background claiming that I had just finished college and had no intent of going on to university. My long hair and shaggy beard seemed to do little to undermine the creditability of my story. I was hired. Thus began my short but intense career as a shift-work mill labourer in the hot desert sun. There were a number of Tasmanian employment refugees like my father at the mill. We identified ourselves by drawing a rough triangle (the general shape of the island state of Tasmania) on our helmets with the year of our arrival in the middle of the triangle. My red helmet had a yellow triangle and a ‘77’.
 The main, and never ending, shift task was using a special metal ‘key’, a metal rod about a metre in length with a ‘V’ at one end. The labourer would approach a 6 metre long steel girder laying on its side push the ‘V’ at the top of the bar into an edge of the girder and with the right degree of force and timing ‘flick’ the bar over. It was a simple task that anyone could do and the degree of instruction matched its complexity – a handful of minutes on the first day. But it was, in fact, a simple task that sometimes went horribly wrong. Errors in estimating the force, timing and/or getting the flick wrong would result in the 6 metre several tonne  girder whipping back suddenly. When this happened you had to do two things: first, let go of the bar – or have your arm wrenched from its socket; and second, step back, duck and dive backwards as your bar spun would often spin back towards you. The turning procedure needed to be done every few minutes. If you failed to turn a girder the whole section of the rolling mill would be on hold until you recovered your turning bar, tested your arm and successfully flipped the girder.

There were three shifts, morning from 8am - 4pm, afternoon from 4pm - midnight and night shift from midnight - 8am. You rotated through these shifts over three weeks. Labourers, desperate for money like me, could also volunteer for overtime.  Sometimes, overtime was an extra three hour shift or a rare but enriching double shift with full meal allowances. The only drawback of overtime was having to rock up at the start of the next normal shift – a killer after a double shift. For a very good reason there were few volunteers for overtime.– the overtime job that awaited you. Few people volunteered for a second lot of overtime. After eight hours of flicking steel girders, with little access to water, your stamina and concentration was fairly low.  The overtime job was ‘bundling’.  Bundling is such a simple phrase that described something Dante would have struggled to depict. Girders would emerge from the furnaces glowing red hot, twisted and warped. They needed to be straightened between massive heavy-duty rollers. After the rolling, the girders would be collected in bundles of 8-10 by massive forklifts and taken out into the desert to cool off. The cooling took several days. The cooled girders were then returned to the rollers to be further straightened.

Bundling required the labourer to twist a thick wire around both ends of the bundle and a third wire in the middle. Donning a full face mask, thick leather gloves and a thick leather apron with your trusty flip bar in one hand and the wire in the other you dashed from the shelter towards this massive pile of glowing red steel with two other work mates. There you stood like a leather clad medieval knight on the edge of a dessert in the middle of summer to undergo your ordeal.  Step 1, twist the long wire in half forming a small loop at one end. Step 2, tap the new double strand wire one third along and about halfway along which allowed the wire to be folded at these ‘joints’. Step 3 walk quickly up to the mass of steel, surrounded by heat, burning dust, choking air and slide the wire underneath and up behind the bundle. Step 4,  reach across the red hot steel – avoiding contact - insert bar in loop twist until wire is super tight. Step 5, ignore the honking forklift drivers right behind you (on a bonus for each bundle collected – whilst the bundlers were on a flat minimum wage).

Five quick steps.  25 seconds in total if done flawlessly.  My maximum limit was about 40 seconds of exposure to the heat, choking fumes and horn blasts. Stuff up the bundling and the second attempt would generally take another 40 -50 seconds. Third attempts were simply suicidal. On second attempts you started to forget things like why there needed to be a loop, you would neglect to put in the ‘joints’ and struggle with trying to fit a straight thick iron wire around a stack of red hot steel. This was often followed by the ultimate moment of induced forgetfulness. Thick leather offered some protection from heat but it was not a very fireproof barrier against direct contact with red hot steel. A quick lapse of concentration would be immediately accompanied by the smell of fresh burning and the necessity to quickly retreat. I never got burnt but several times I exchanged my smoking holey gloves or apron for new ones. Once the girders were bundled, you retreated to the shelter taking off helmet, gloves and knocking back endless quantities of water. If the bundling was completed in the first attempt and in minimal time you had the luxury of fresh air, water and time to refocus on the next foray. When you staggered through a second or third attempt you had no time for any recovery.  Labourers who failed to complete overtime tasks never got a second opportunity.

Stand stills were frequent at the mill. Rolling the warped red hot steel between the straightening wheels required attention to speed, the weight to be applied and the positioning of the girder. The rolling operators seemed to be a hot-bed collection of dope smoking and white horse riding (heroin) cowboys and inattention and therefore hold ups were common. During the day and early afternoon shifts when these stoppages occurred,  labourers, like me, had to grab tins of yellow paint and  repaint all the safety rails, just in case a ‘boss’ was walking around. ‘Bosses’ had to suffer big pieces of machinery not working but would not tolerate a free loading labourer. Over several weeks, I painted the same safety railings at least 15 times. When stoppages occurred after the afternoon shift  meal beak (7.30pm) or on nightshift, when no Bosses were on the job,  you could curl up in a corner and try and sleep or read under the lights. Generally I was the only reader in the rolling mill area. Reading Kerouac, Salinger, Tom Robbins or political philosophy in the strange twilight and backdrop of a night time steel mill on the edge of the desert added a special atmosphere to the task.
A few weeks of enduring an antipodean version of Dante’s Inferno led to the fateful decision to forgo a few extra weeks of wages and head back to Tasmania to enrol in a special 2 week intensive Introduction to Law course. A series of letters exchanged with my friend Sally (met in my very first Political Science tutorial and my first ever private school friend) persuaded me to give law a go. At that point I had no realisation of the role played by law in creating and preserving the status quo that I had started to rub against.

Leaf 6 “Talking to the Generals” Phnom Penh, Cambodia August 2007

We had just driven across Phnom Penh in a small convoy, small flags fluttering at the front of the vehicle.  Negotiations for this meeting had been going on for a couple of days. We were waved into the Headquarters of the Cambodian Defence Ministry. Car doors were opened smoothly by officers in smart dress uniforms. On the circular creamy marble stairs at each turn, there were pairs of silent and still guards. As we climbed the levels, the amount of insignia, colour cords and braiding on the statute like guards increased. The seven of us (including our interpreter, four Ministry of National Assembly officials and my Cambodian off-sider) were ushered into a massive room.  We were seated at two long polished wooden tables separated by a wide gap in the middle. At each seat was a microphone. It was like a photo from the Paris Peace Talks of the late 1960s or early 1970s. Opposite sat eight men in full dress uniform, adorned with medals and overflowing braid, and one lone civilian. Behind each officer, and a few paces back, fully armed sentries stood at attention. I wanted to whip out my camera to catch the scene but decided that this would probably be a deal breaker.

At one point in the meeting, I referred to a section in the Cambodian Constitution. The translation was followed by looks of concern and the hands of the Generals started to move towards their jackets. My immediate thought was that I had derailed the talks with a stupid comment. It was both a relief and surprise when all of them drew out their pocket constitutions to confirm the accuracy of my Cambodian constitutional knowledge. At that point, I reflected that reaching for their constitutions rather than their guns may have been a sign of progress in Cambodia’s long and very troubled history. 
Later, in the course of a few terse exchanges, it was apparent that the Generals were deeply concerned, but it was hard to fathom the cause.  Then, enlightenment: the Generals thought the ‘right to information’ was also the ‘right of every soldier’, regardless of rank,  to release information. They had been reeling from the thought of Cambodian privates exercising constitutionally guaranteed rights to hand out information to anyone who wanted it. A quick clarification that FOI officers, authorisied to make decisions about release of information, ought to be senior officers operating in a firm line of command placed negotiations back on a smooth path.

As we left the compound I reflected on how a shy, tongue-tied boy from a small mountain mining town had found himself dealing directly with generals and Ministers in a far away land (Eespecially after a childhood of imagining being a solider in Vietnam). Yet the stories of those I worked with and my visit to S21 quickly evaporated any sentimentality or light heartedness. S21 was the former school where over 14,000 Cambodians and a handful of non-Cambodians were systematically tortured, interrogated, photographed (often in their torture chair) and then killed, Most of the people I worked with had been young children or young adults during the Khmer years.

Throughout my work in Cambodia there would be times when these 40-55 year old survivors would gently recall some aspect of these troubled years. It might be a comment about how my local 45 year old consultant was the family ‘elder’ for his extended family.  Or the NGO activist, who acted as a go-between with government officials, recounting how as a young teenager he walked across Cambodia, eluding the Khmer Rouge and then swum underwater sucking through a reed to get across the Thai border before becoming for a period a teenage gunrunner. 

Next -

Friday, July 20, 2007

Cambodia Week 4 - Generals, Ministers, Businessmen and Volunteer Girls and words turning Khmer – a few more days in Phnom Penh

I got to Thursday afternoon and the last few days lost in a blur. Little time to keep journal updated on a daily basis. A constant routine of very early mornings (usually 4 am recently 2am to 3 am) working on policy paper – first draft due at midday on Friday – A range of meeting ranging from those with a 4 star general and later a Minister of Information to mini-meetings – trying to write the paper whilst discussions held in Khmer.

The previous Sunday is a far distant blur to me. Vaguely recall having breakfast and dinner at the Garden Centre but little in between.

Spend a lot of the time during the week discussing how my awkward English terms can be turned into passable Khmer. Has rammed home to me both the power of translation and the severe limitations. Impressed by the number of volunteers working in Cambodia – Two of the young women I have encountered Giedre and Clare are intelligent, committed and sharp.

I think the prospect, eventually, of a FOI or access to information act for Cambodia took a couple of small steps forward this week. Workshop with NGOs advanced awareness and the consultations with key Ministries has at least put the topic on the agenda. Late on Friday afternoon a draft policy paper was doing the rounds of Ministry corridors (hopefully can be read by early next week). The first few days of next week will allow us to catch up with notes and preparation for national workshop on 25th July. The first government sponsored FOI workshop in Cambodia.


Day 23 Monday 9th July.

The meeting shuffle

Monday morning we get to work early only to discover that the two morning meetings have been rescheduled for Wednesday – stuffing up today’s arrangement re cars/interpreter but also now filling up Wednesday with meetings. Only time to really work on paper is early morning. Tend to be too zonked to do this at night.

Monday afternoon we go to the Ministry of National Defense and Ministry of Interior at different ends of town – 15-20 minutes to get between each meeting – no leeway in schedule.

An almost surreal experience. We arrive at Ministry of National Defense. Go up sweeping staircases. Shepherded pass several helmeted armed guards with an increasing larger amount of braid and insignia as we get closer to meeting.

Into large airy room. Double the size of the University Council Room. Long tables like at Peace Accords – could fit 12-15 on each side – with rows of chairs and desks behind – very wide room. The six of us sitting across from 8 generals and colonels plus a civilian Secretary of State. A 4 star general is acting Minister of Defence. Full uniforms and caps. Wish I had been able to take photo. Our request for an appointment had caught them unaware. The timeframes for this project have really accelerated the normal process. All of them had their pocket Cambodian constitutions that they flicked through after reading my briefing notes (translated into Khmer) about how Sections 31,35 and 41 can be read together to establish a constitutional basis to the right to access information… A fairly powerful argument. In particular we are arguing that Article 35 imposes a duty or expectation on citizens to advise the organs of the state –

“Article 35 - Khmer citizens of either sex shall have the right to participate actively in the political, economic, social, and cultural life of the nation. Any suggestions from the people shall be given full consideration by the organs of the State."


A function/duty that requires an ability to access and use government-held information so that the suggestions are informed and more relevant and accurate.

Made it clear that they had lots of information they needed to protect – including actual number of soldiers (controversial issue at moment – army is meant to be demobilising) and under impression that any soldier might be required to release information contrary to their military legislation. Haven’t been able to convince them that all access legislation provides for important defense information – especially related to combat or combat preparedness – to be protected. The issue will come down to whether we can persuade them that 1. The proposed harm test will provide sufficient protection and that 2. they need to start from the principles of the policy.

Hard to convince, in any jurisdiction, those use to blanket restrictions and sweeping use of confidential, secret and top secret classifications that they can function in a slightly more transparent regime. The start is to have Ministries start to think about what information they could release with no or little harm.

At end of meeting we asked for a copy of the legislation they had kept referring to and they told us - they couldn't give to us – FOI off to a good start. Although the next week we were provided with the legislation. Another small step. People keep telling me small steps, small steps.

Given the recent history of Cambodia and the universal nature of defense forces it is not a surprise that the concern is about discipline (the mistaken idea that an access to information act would allow any solider to release information as opposed to authorised Access to Information Officers), adherence to existing legislation and procedures (not yet thinking about if the two FOI and the existing legislation can work together) and reactive (little time to absorb the reasoning of the policy).

The following week I get time to read the entire Defense White Paper and learn about Ghost Soliders, the high number of officers (77% of Defense force), problems of promotion and nepotism, I then come across the section on transparency.

Defending the Kingdom of Cambodia 2006 Security Development and International Co-operation : Defense Policy of the Kingdom of Cambodia 2006 pages 87-88

“Good governance, the Royal Government’s fundamental objective, needs transparency. All strategic objectives written in the Defense White Paper depend completely on the strengthening of transparency for implementation. Another main support for transparency is a military law system. The need for further strengthening laws as described in chapter 4 not only aligns with international norms but it is also necessary for every soldier. “



Then off to the Ministry of Interior. Classical French colonial architecture – large verandas – open hall ways to allow breeze and air circulation. Met by cameras (digital and video) to record our arrival. Secretary of State well informed and sounded fairly relaxed with the concept of allowing a little more access specially if a clearer set of guidelines put in place.

For each meeting my presentation more focused – then in the meetings last week - on the concerns and issues for each Ministry. Interpreter excellent – simultaneous interpretation. Yet gets hard to concentrate when – apart from my questions/comments the meetings tend to be replays of each other.

In spare time during Monday got ready for the two seminars on Tuesday – I think I did that on Sunday as well. But just can’t recall.

The consultancy is being undertaken at a much faster pace and intensity than I expected, intended or am prepared for in terms of capacity and energy. Little time for reflection or time just to contemplate before having to make decisions. Countless decisions being made on the run – whether it be hiring extra translators, content of draft or response to any problems. However progress being made and slowly becoming a joint work product.

Tuesday 10th July Day 24

Civil Society Seminar in the morning started at 8.30 to about 30-40 representatives from NGOs. I do a 30-40 minute presentation. An hour or so of questions.

Afternoon session with donors. No chance to work on policy during the day. Deadline fast approaching.

Go downstairs for tea with computer – a sad commentary on this consultancy life. Having a MacBook as my preferred dining companion. Do a bit and then join Jun for a meal. Japanese agronomist – here for 5 weeks – already been here for 2 weeks. Has 2 soccer keen boys (10 and 12) at home. He is studying rice yields and climate change. Works in the field each day. Tends to be stuffed when he returns to the Goldiana. His English is halting but accessible.

Wednesday 11th July Day 25

Up very early about 3am. Get a lot done. Full crowd at breakfast. Suppose to be 8 am start but local consultant so wrapped up in translating does not arrive till almost 8.30. After that we tend to be out of sync all day. He has been up since 4 am translating. We are only surviving by burning the candle at both ends.

Meeting in morning with Ministry of Justice. Female under-secretary of state, judge – trained in Russia. Courts and laws a complete mixture. A lot of staff trained in various countries including Japan. So laws are often Khmer/French (Penal Code) or Khmer/Japanese etc. Cambodia has project to put Civil verdicts and cases online and then eventually their legislation.

Afternoon meeting is at the Ministry of Information. Meet Minister. He was jailed by Hun Sen late 1980s for forming an opposition party. When released from jail went to work with Hun Sen. – now Information Minister. Meeting went well, the Minister was well informed and detailed the operations of the Press Law (which has a mini-FOI process for journalists that hasn’t worked). Ministry of Information in a run down compound – from French colonial times – most signs in Khmer and French. One building - large old Cambodian style (curved roof, sweeping rafters) has completely collapsed at one end but staff are still using offices at the other end. Compound overgrown, everything looks neglected. Yet where we meet has been set up almost as a broadcast area, met by several tv cameras, photographers that cover opening part of meeting.

Wednesday night have dinner and work at Garden Center with my normal companion - computer.

Thursday 12th July Day 26

Up at 2am to work on policy till 6 am. Enjoyable breakfast with the usual suspects except Denise the teacher/artist from LA. I arrange for Giedre and Elise ----, my 15 year old daughter who is in London on the way home (long way) from a 5 month student exchange just outside Madrid --- to try and catch up in London after Giedre’s return. Although only about a 30 hour overlap in their time together in London. I think they would enjoy meeting each other.

Drafting Team leader wants 8 o’clock meeting to go over schedule of national workshop to be held on 25th of July– now being opened by MoNASRI’s minister. I spend a lot of the meeting – that is conducted mostly in Khmer – working on policy paper, stopping occasionally to answer questions. Meeting goes for about 90 minutes – manage to finish last section of paper. Local consultant begs me to stop so he can complete translation. So paper has new deadline – ie today. Use spare time to catch up with journal and finally think about the policy paper and the progress of the project to date.

Spend afternoon winding down, catching up with paperwork and electronic filing. Local consultant has mishap and loses about 2 hours of translating. His back ups hadn’t worked for some reason.

Catch up with Denise who is off to another art opening. Also see Giedre and we talk for a while. Have dinner with Jun the agronomist and we talk about Japanese history and culture (my studies from 20 years ago paying off) impress him by having read all Misihma Yukio’s works. He gives me a beautiful, in his faltering English, account of Buddhist belief in reincarnation and how deeply ingrain it is in the Japanese. Short power failure. This is a richer neighbourhood so power failures less frequent and of shorter duration then compared to other parts of Phnom Penh. Spent a while during the day on MSN to Elise, Lance and Esther. Esther snowed under as 1 eBay buyer buys several books as we chat.

Also generated extensive series of discussions with my virtual expert group on Fees and FOI. Very extensive contributions by everyone – included Paul Hubbard who started the discussion with me in the network.

When this consultancy finishes will try to do a summary of the key points from these discussions.

I spend some time outside with the geckos contemplating the night skyline of Phnom Penh.

Friday 13th July Day 27

Up about 4 am. Decide I should at least add a short executive summary (dot point) to policy paper. Also need to check that I have specifically mentioned an exemption for defense matters that are in the public interest. Defense called yesterday wanting early copies of the draft. Keep on imaging generals turning up at my door wanting to know “you want access to what!”

Jeff is leaving tomorrow (farmer/consultant from Tamworth – originally Moree), a banking consultant joins us from Bangladesh. Imelda worried re passport and visa. Joined later by John and Giedre. Giedre and I spend about 20 minutes chatting after the others have left. Her mum runs a small restaurant near Latvian border – her father worked for an oil company. Their home business also has a 200 year old windmill and 3 new wind turbines – they sell power to the power grid. We have a discussion about the interrelationship between NGOS and civil service and rates of power. Local consultant late again so I work on executive summary in lobby. Denise talks to me about one of the 17 journalists who resigned from a French-Khmer newspaper here. Arrange to meet Denise and her French friend sometime on Saturday.

Spend morning tidying up, printing out the printable English version of the policy paper and doing this journal whilst waiting for the translation to be completed. The power outrage in local consultant’s neighbourhood was over an hour so has thrown him way behind his schedule.


Finally get the English and Khmer versions of the policy paper to Ministry by 3.30 pm. – 3 hours late. No Khmer executive summary Spend rest of afternoon tidying up files.

Catch my first Tuk Tuk to the Hotel Cambodiana. About 40 attend Aaron’s talk. Aaron presenting PACT’s clean business campaign. Talk to doctor – in country for 14 years started as a VSO volunteer (UK equivalent to Volunteers Aboard), became increasingly disillusioned with the corruption in the UN , then other NGOs – believes the legal system is corrupt from the top down – many lawyer friends and he services the prison. Argues that everyone from witnesses to judges are open to payment. 80% of population have no birth records so in prosecution cases for underage sex etc – the age of the victim simply changes depending whether you pay or not. After killing fields only 10 lawyers or so left in country. So majority of judges still are not legally trained. If they are trained could be trained anywhere – France, Russia, Vietnam, Japan, US and to a lesser degree UK and Australia.

Sit next to Claire at the dinner, a volunteer at PACT, originally from Chicago, studied on West Coast and worked there, now enrolled in law school at Boston. Been in Cambodia 3 months heading to law school in a month. Short, dark hair, very interesting person – sharp mind. We have a long discussion with the CEO Asia-Pacific Business Coalition on HIV/AIDS a former British and Australian (since 1995). Clarie is also doing food reviews (not paid but free food), will get some recommendations from here.

At end of night Regional Director for PACT – runs me through a major debrief of project – SWOT analysis, looking at project from several perspectives. An interesting and educative experience especially late at night – we head out along a corridor of bright yellow/gold tube lighting which could be from any sci-fi set of the 70s or a Jane Fonda movie of the 1960s – imagine a long star trek corridor that every 3 metres has a strip of this lighting up walls and across roof – and runs for about 30-40 metres. Meanwhile in the bar next door someone is murdering a Tom Jones song at full throttle.

Come back to a vigorous discussion on email from the Virtual Team about whether the policy paper should decrease/cut mention of NGOs and push positive development argument – keep the rights focus and one member in the middle. I am also in the middle keen to push both rights and pro-development aspects.

Just another Friday night in Phnom Penh.





Sunday, July 8, 2007

Cambodia Week 3

Week 3 – A crescendo of work, people and politics

A week that started quietly but just gradually built up into an intense round of experiences, ups and downs and little time to reflect on my island home so far away. Far away in terms of flight hours, culture, interaction and landscape. Most days steamy, with a tropical downpour that pours down for about 20-40 minutes.

Worked on the Saturday at PACT. The Tuk Tuk drivers despair of ever seeing one of my crumpled US dollars. Have almost worked my way through the menus of the Goldiana and my 2 favourite near by eating places the Khmer Surim and the Garden Centre – contrasts in food, light, feel and clientele.

Sunday is a relatively quiet day I work on Law 609 Comparative Administrative Law so I can email off the adjusted course outline so students can decide whether they want to remain enrolled. Esther emails about our new dog Sophie’s lame efforts at dog training.

Monday up at 4am to email off Law 609 material and answer emails from my two virtual teams for the project. A Formal Team that consists of an expert from India, a senior World Bank official, Article 19’s key person on FOI – Toby Mendel and Al Roberts from the US. My informal team - friends and contacts who I can bounce much more undeveloped ideas off – consists of an archivist from Botswana, Paul Hubbard (UTAS graduate now Fulbright scholar – doing a summer internship in Washington DC), a friend working for UNDP in Fiji, an official from NZ Ombudsman office and Weibing (postgraduate student). Later in week I hire Weibing to undertake some research for project.

Monday morning starts the process of bringing my various breakfast companions together. By week’s end we are a very interactive and friendly breakfast club. But this morning I dine with Imelda (age possibly post 50s – Irish descent but born in London but can’t tolerate living there), who has crammed several lifetimes of experiences in PNG, South Pacific, Australia and now Cambodia. Every day like a rose she unfurls that little more – and another layer of stories and wild experiences are added.

Jeff, a retired farmer from Moree (12,000 hectares) and who now works in Cambodia and Bangladesh as an agricultural consultant (has an ag-sci degree). Big, partially deaf, so speaks loudly and the type of no nonsense farmer who doesn’t hesitate to speak his mind. Pops by table to give me details of a reliable travel agent who can get me to Angkor Wat if I get a 2 day window.

Today is the first day for us (local consultant and myself) to be based at the Ministry. We are given the large meeting room to sit in. Nothing else but a large table and twenty empty chairs (plastic wraps still on some). Spend morning working whilst local consultant tries to translate my writing into Khmer. Spend remainder of day organising workshops for the following week.

Eat at the local food place – still the only European who eats there.

In the far end of the Ministry car park – within the walled compound – I notice a car with flat tires and a clothes rack next to it. Closer inspection shows a family living in car. I assume the father may work as a cleaner within ministry. Later in week I noticed on the building site next door that as each storey completed the family of the workers move in and live in the completed sections – explains to me the large number of children around site late at night.

Notice a few school age kids in the rundown areas who clearly do not attend school.

On outskirts of slum area (where demonstrations held about land clearance on Friday and Saturday) are cart pushers who look like they sleep in and/or under their carts during the day.

Tuesday

Up around 5 am work on policy paper. Have breakfast with Imelda and John from New Zealand (who in spare time is a pilot and building an ultralight aircraft in NZ) working on agricultural financing in Cambodia including looking at micro-financing with AusAID. Would love to have Lance here to listening to some of these people and to see applied economics – political economy in action.

After breakfast get some feedback from my informal group on part of the paper. Go to PACT (the NGO supporting us) to do printing, chaseup next week’s meetings, arrange cars etc. Finally my local consultant can sign his contract (after working for 7 days and payment still a week or so away).

Saw a truckload of monks and an old black and white (a la Blues Brothers) police car. Someone at breakfast pointed out that since new road laws the amount of corrupt activity by police has increased.

Get back to Hotel Goldiana and chill out for an hour or so. Go exploring the neighbourhood (large double block). Eat at Khmer Surim again, Joined by Denise an American artist , mural painter , about 50, glasses, blonde tied back hair, has been to Cambodia several times, she also travels regularly to Korea. Has invested in several rental properties in LA, teaches in Long Reach. Had a sculpture exhibition last week – contemporary. She is working on a mural project with young art students. Very bright. Teaches me the polite form of bowing and the Cambodian for thankyou. The bowing lesson reaps enormous dividends over next few days.

Wednesday

Meeting at 8.30 at Ministry with Drafting team lasts all morning.

Thursday


Breakfast was a linking up of various long termers I had met at hotel and introducing them to each other. I was dressed in my suit because leaving at 7.30 for the VIP meetings.

So at table, at various times was Imelda, Jeff (from Tamworth), Marco (a Dutch Engineer working with Mekong River Commission on flood prevention/control) Denise the mural artist from LA and Giedre from Lithuania – blonde, tall, speaks Russian, Spanish and flawless English, graduate in Russian politics,

Picked up at 7.30 (Marko concerned with quality of my tie). Met the interpreter.

Each meeting was conducted much the same – formal greetings (in Senate, Assembly, Council of Ministers), sitting across the table from each other. A formal opening by our side, a response, then my turn to brief, then questions and usually one of our team doing the last sales pitch then formal goodbyes.

Venues very different. National Assembly building in new parliament – meeting room lavish, one of the most beautiful tables I have seen in my travels. Lots of cars with blacked out windows entering and exiting the National Assembly compound.

The Senate is some distance away from the national assembly in a large compound, beautiful landscapes. Probably a large French influence.

The Council of Ministers (last 2 meetings) is based in the Russian Friendship Building. Probably built early Vietnamese occupation but feels more like Stalin’s Russia. Very run down building. Being replaced by a new $8 million US building (Chinese Aid) being built next door – will be massive – just looking at foundations. Series of minor officials at all meetings.

Had to postpone 1 till tomorrow with Chairman of Administrative Reform Council. (This turns out to be a very interesting experience)

Had meetings with several people including:

Chairman of NA 5th Commission H.E. Son Chhay, MP
Chairman of Senate 5th Commission H.E. Mrs. Ty Borasy, Senator
H.E. Sam Sophal Vice-Chair of Legal and Judicial Council

All meetings went well in particular the last meeting. Exhausted at the end of the day.

Got another series of talks with key departments and 1 deputy
Prime Minister on Monday. The Defense Department meeting will be with 2 secretaries of state, 3 secretary-generals and a couple more. The Ministry has just announced its member for our team – a General. Then 2 briefing workshops on Tuesday (civil society and donors, international institutions).

So falling behind on draft production - but I think the meetings are
gathering a good set of inputs and concerns and paving the way for the policy paper to the Council of Ministers.

Had lunch at the Sweet Restaurant just around corner from PACT – first time I have seen cigarettes on a menu. Have noticed few Cambodians smoke (or smoke a lot). Told very expensive 50 cents US for 1 cigarette.

Have dinner by myself at Khmer Surim and an apple crumble at Garden Centre. Have an epiphany about how to respond to some of the concerns raised during the Senate meeting.

In bed by 10pm.


Friday

Up at 4 am. Send out plea for help with policy to my informal network and hire Weibing to work on rough draft of one section.

The full breakfast crew - Imelda, Jeff (from Tamworth), Marco (the Dutch Engineer) Denise the mural artist from LA and Giedre and John (the banker from New Zealand) share the table at some stage. Giedre doing a policy/planning paper for a network of 27 groups. Working as a volunteer in the area of child prostitution.

Check about my visa extension later at PACT but forgot to bring 2 photos. Must do on Monday. Around 10 we head off for our meeting with Secretary General for Council for Administrative Reform.

Several advisors present. We receive a very long lecture on the 10-15 reasons why Cambodia doesn’t need an FOI Act anytime in foreseeable future if at all. Receive a history lesson about the Khmer Rouge and aftermath.

Go back to PACT work on minutes and plan for workshops on Tuesday. Have lunch at the Japanese Restaurant near work.

One of my companions had 8 brothers and 1 sister. Lost 3 brothers, sister and mother to the Killing Fields. He is No. 1 son, father is now an 88 year old monk. He makes food for his father each day. His remaining brothers have done very well, youngest is ambassador to Japan, another has 3 PhDs, the others all have Phds.

Have dinner in hotel restaurant work on draft of section 3 over my green chicken curry. Get a rough draft to send to Charmaine and Paul in my informal network. Watch Cats play Essendon, - so up late but worth it. talk to Lance on MSN – finishing his room – the family and Amy down with flu. Esther has week off.

Paul comes back with a revised version of a draft – “a bit of a hack”. In truth by some rearranging and a few well chosen words he has transformed it. So with a Cats victory and a great draft of a section of the policy paper I am very happy.


Saturday

Up early working on drafts of various sections and trying to get a powerpoint presentation together for the two seminars on Tuesday. Monday is completely filled with meetings with various ministries and 1 Deputy Prime Minister so will have no other time to get ready.

Normal crew at breakfast, Marco off to work in Indonesia for 7 days. Geidre into her last week.

Go back to room and work solidly throughout morning. Entrapped by the breakfast girls - Imelda, Denise and Giedre to join them for lunch at the Garden Centre. Lasted 3 hours (needed the break and their company). Then back to work.

Later that night I have a long briefing over dinner with the World Bank senior official who is part of formal virtual team. He is fairly critical (not of paper but of timeframe and process that is being used).

Reflections on last 3 weeks

Seems like an eternity since I was freezing at Salamanca Market and said goodbye to Esther on the corner of Salamanca Place.

Project

Still on track but high potential for it to stall or fall over.
Optimistic will produce a draft Policy Paper. The meetings next week and the National Workshop the week after will be critical tests.

Project has been much more complex, more critical and more dependent on a couple of people than I had contemplated. Certainly my role has extended from simply being a consultant working to a team. Support from PACT has been critical.

The Public Service in Cambodia

Everything I had read prior to my trip has been confirmed. To say that it lacks capacity is a gross understatement. Reactive and poor resources (of all kinds including intellectual – drained off by Council of Ministers , NGOS or private sector). Standards and capacity several grades below the internationally supported NGOS. Extremely politicisied to most levels.

Legal System

A complex amalgam of Cambodian (Buddhist), monarchy, French, German – various shades of Communist and now influence of major donors like USA.


Politics

Plays out at all levels. National versus donor. Factions, changing alliances, operation of family links and obligations, patronage politics practiced to an art form. History a big influence even prior to Year 0 but especially since.

Cambodians I work with

• Middle class and upper class
• Friendly
• Wicked sense of humour
• Impact of Killing Fields
• Hard working
• The importance of and strength of networks

Poverty

Signs of it everywhere but less than I expected or experienced by others who visited a few years back. Occasional beggar but mostly I have not been out of main city area.

Lots of activity buildings, stalls, small businesses, growing middle class. On one of the boulevards motorbikes on sale in front of each shop for several blocks.

Corruption major, but largely unseen, hand on almost everything from building permits, traffic to positions in public service (many brought).

Orphans

The numbers 500,000+ stagger me. The hotel has several families staying here who are going through the process of adoption (a number of Italian families). Some very strong moral and development arguments here but the sheer joy and love of the adopting families hard to ignore.

Hotel is Kid Safe as are Tuk Tuk drivers in the area – to prevent child prostitutes or abuse of young children. Hard to comprehend the level of child prostitution outline by Giedre – partly triggered by levels of poverty, orphans and corruption (known areas where it takes place ie like near Russian Market).

Cambodia - Weeks 1-2

Apologies and caveats

My apologies for being off-air for so long. Heavy teaching load first semester. My general operating principle is to allocate my time to family, teaching, research, gardening and then projects like this. With 2 courses and 600+ students on 3 campuses the last 2 items have got minimal attention in last few months.

These Cambodian enteries are simply a rough journal of my time working in Phnom Penh on a FOI project. Written more for family and students. Restricted, mostly by my choice, about what I can and should say about the actual project. Although it will be clear from comments that the challenges of helping to design an access for information scheme for a country like Cambodia are both many and often confronting.

Background to FOI or Access to Information in Cambodia

Cambodian Government has signed up with Development Partners ( Donor Countries and bodies like World Bank) to develop a clear policy framework on Access to Information (why I have been hired).

The Cambodian Parliament and civil society have also been active in promoting and encouraging greater transparency - with support from Article 19, UNESCO and World Bank.

In late 2002 the 5th Committee of the Senate initiated a bill on Freedom of Information.

In 2003 local and international NGOs began to advocate for a national Freedom of Information Law. In January 2005 a formal Freedom of Information Working Group was formed. A number of important and well attended conferences have been held that have informed Cambodians about Access to Information laws and best practices. These conferences included:

2004 – Workshop on Freedom of Information 23 June 2004 Phnom Penh
90 participants from 58 organisations.

2005 – Workshop on International Best Practices and Standards of Freedom of Information. 6-7 June 2004 Phnom Penh
112 participants.

2005 – Seminar on Access to Information 14-16 September 2005 Sihanouk Ville
38 participants

2006 - Seminar “New Trends on Freedom of Information and Access to Information in Cambodia” 4-5 April 2006 Phnom Penh

2006 – Seminar “Public Access to Information in Cambodia” 24 November MoNASRI Phnom Penh

A draft law has also been drawn up by the NGO ADHOC.

First Two Weeks in Cambodia


I have been engaged on a seven week consultancy by USAID through PACT Cambodia (a capacity building NGO) to assist MoNASRI (The Ministry for National Assembly Senate Relations and Inspections) to help draft a Policy Paper on Freedom of Information.

See US Embassy write up and picture of Formal Signing Ceremony at http://phnompenh.usembassy.gov/usaid_monasri_mou.html
After the 2006 Consultative Group meeting, the Ministry of National Assembly, Senate Relations and Inspections was given the mandate by the Council of Ministers to develop a government Policy Paper on Access to Information prior to the development of a Access to Information Law and that this Policy Paper be approved by the Council of Ministers. The Policy Paper will set out the framework for the government’s strategy on increasing access to information. It will define access to information, the role of government agencies and other stakeholders in promoting access to government information, fundamental principles to be included in the draft law, timeframe for its passage and designated agency responsible for the development of the draft law. This policy paper will provide guidance to the government’s commitment for promoting access to government information.

I am working with a local consultant and a drafting team of about 17 representatives from MoNASRI and other ministries. Usually just 3 of us on a day to day basis..

I have been in Cambodia for just over 2 weeks and deadlines for first drafts etc of the Policy Paper are fast approaching.

Many who I meet – both Cambodian and foreigners – try to diminish my expectations by pointing out that any progress at all on this issue in 7 weeks will be a welcome success.

Have been having lots of discussions with my various networks about whether FOI is possible in Countries in Transit or not.

I spend most of my time working so get to see few of the sights. But I do see the extremes of poverty (despite Cambodia having 8-10% growth each year) and wealth ie small unclothed children scrambling in rubbish piles at the edge of the road and a block further along a new Lamborghini outside a nightclub.

The traffic and its informality and flexible patterns and rules are a constant source of bewilderment and puzzlement to me. This is an extract from my diary about day 1 on the way from the airport to Hotel Goldiana

Entry into real Cambodian traffic - Sunday morning and roads very busy.
Series of little scenes stay in mind -

Traffic flows freely but slowly - we do about 30-40km for most of trip. The reason for this becomes slowly apparent.

Whilst traffic sticks to left and right (Cambodia is a left hand driving country) your position in that lane(s) is fairly flexible. If cars, bikes, tuk tuks (motor bikes with cart with roof on it) come too close or you intend to move up close to a motor bike rider who is busy applying her makeup you beep your horn.

A lot of driving is a slow delicate weaving in and out whether bus, bike or car

Most intersections appear to be unregulated - traffic, pedestrians just seem to glide through each other - never stopping but slowing to assist timing - all seems to be a question of fine timing. Watched as a young woman on a push bike who seemed to travelling at a constant speed just glided through a busy intersection.

Range of vehicles but most common small 50-150cc motor bikes -
occasional bike ridden by one person but generally two. If second person a woman or girl they tend to sit side saddle.

Often there are three on a 100cc bike - passed two bikes with 4 priests in yellow/orange robes and 2 drivers.

Occasionally you will see 4 men or women riding on the same bike. So you can imagine how many people there might be in a tarago van (lost count at about 12).

Having slight apprehension about walking anywhere - have doubts about my capacity to glide across intersections.

All the hallmarks of poverty abound - lots of small foodstalls, vendors with mats on grounds selling shoes (sometimes not in pairs). Lots of building rubble - every second building seems to be being built, repaired or tumbling down. Mounds of rubbish on corners. At same time paradox of endless small communication shops.

The Hotel Goldiana, is in the twilight of its golden years but clean and fairly well located especially in getting to PACT and MoNASRI. Every morning I keep of thinking about the lyrics of Hotel California.

The guests gather for breakfast (included in most room charges) the normal array of eggs, dried bacon, sad small sausages, an array of fruit, ceral and drinks. An interesting mixture of people – consultants (some on quick 2 day hit and runs and others like me here for a couple of months), visiting school groups, German and French backpackers, NGO workers and spare characters left over from a Graham Greene or Albert Camus novel.

The consultants are generally older than me – usually retired. They have great stories to tell and I have learnt a lot especially about agriculture and the frustrations of working with Cambodian bureaucracy.

I try and make a point of inviting myself to join an occupied table at breakfast so I can meet more of this ever changing cast of characters.

Strangely few, and on many nights no one, eat at the hotel in the evenings. I have eaten there a few nights and food is good and comparable to any of the other places you can eat within walking distance. And price the same. So not sure why no one eats there. The more westernisied, and costly, places are down alongside the Mekong – a 5 minute bike or tuk tuk journey away.

I am inhabiting a weird netherworld between the NGO PACT and the government officials in MoNASRI. I work with both, report to both and get caught up in all the agendas. Furthermore the outside surface and calm is interrupted by a starker and more troublesome reality. Report on internet that a Cambodian journalist has fled to Bangkok after death threats due to his reporting on forest clearing and ripoffs. On the weekend a large trade union has taken out a full page ad seeking justice for 3 leading union leaders they claim were assassinated over last 3 years (and in Australia we worry over unionists whose language is a bit blue or aggressive). Yet here am I sitting in the bowels of the Cambodian public service working on an Access to Information policy paper. Certainly not the heart – MoNASRI doesn’t carry that much weight – although on Thursday and the following Monday I am meeting with a series of senior government officials and parliamentary leaders. Suit days – being escorted by several senior MoNASRI officials.

It is hard to comprehend the wage levels here. The national average wage is 65 US cents a day. A low level public servant will earn about $25 - $40 US a month (my daily hotel bill costs more). A senior bureaucrat between $300 to $400 US a month. A waitress at the hotel between $1 to $3 a day.

There are 650,000 orphans in a country of just 14 million people. The official illiteracy rate is about 30%.

The currency is Riel but $US is the de facto currency.

Many of the senior civil servants I am working with have survived 4 regime changes since Pol Pot’s Year Zero in 1975. Many I work with have their stories of the Killing Fields and time spent working in the countryside. Many are supporting extended families on 1 salary until recent times when their older children, nieces and nephews have started to earn incomes.